I start to paddle on. It feels so
great to be paddling so fast trying to get on. Offshore wind; it's
perfect. The wind is blowing in my face. I stop paddling because I think I am
on. I stand up. OH NO!!! I missed it. I sit there and watch it go past. It
was perfect but I missed it. I sit out the back for about half an hour
doing absolutely nothing. I pretty much am just paddling around. I imagine
standing up tall going along the water. I am so, so bored. Should I go
home or stay here and wait for the perfect one? I decide to stay.
About ten minutes later I see
it coming for me. It's massive. I think about ten foot. I paddle out a bit
further. Then I paddle on to it. I get on it...I pull across the wave.
There is a massive barrel. Get into the barrel. It feels great. I am in
the barrel for about 4 and a half seconds. It's great. When I come out I
imagine people cheering
to me in the pipe masters. Woo
hoo!!!!!! Go Oscar! I come out and do a big cutback. Then I get a big air
of the top and do a barrel role. It gets an even bigger cheer. I would
feel great.
I walk out of the water and pretend to be high
fiving everyone. It would feel amazing to win the pipe masters. I go and
hop in my car and pretend that I am hopping into a massive big bus that is
all mine with big black comfy seats. That would be great. Wouldn't that be
great? It would be so much fun. Then I would go home to a big four
storey mansion to rest before my next competition.
That is my idea of a perfect type surfing day. It would be great with ten foot waves, big barrels and everyone cheering when you come out to get a perfect score of ten.
That is my idea of a perfect type surfing day. It would be great with ten foot waves, big barrels and everyone cheering when you come out to get a perfect score of ten.
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